A LA VARITA – Restaurant

Charcoal and a spit, and very little else to distract from them. This Doral lechonera has been roasting whole pork over coals since 2023, cooking it the way it is done out in the Puerto Rican countryside, and it stakes its entire reputation on that one thing. The pork comes off with crackling skin and meat that has taken hours to get where it is. Hours run late, past ten most nights and later at weekends, which suits the food. There is no pretence of range here and none is needed. Come for the lechon. That is the entire proposition.

Cuisine: Restaurant