Turquoise – Restaurant

A fish house on Union Turnpike in Fresh Meadows where the kitchen's whole argument is what came in that morning. Mediterranean sea bass, broiled branzino and a Zion-style whole fish anchor the menu; sesame-seared tuna and well-cut sushi rolls cover the raw side; and the openers punch above the usual filler, from fire-roasted eggplant under tahini to a goat cheese and beet salad. Diners come back for freshness first, and for an owner who works the room himself. Service can move briskly at peak. Closed Friday and Saturday.

Cuisine: Restaurant