VARGO'S BUFFALO STYLE PIZZA – Italian

A tiny pizza shop right on the water in Steinhatchee, rebuilt after the hurricane and still turning out Buffalo-style pies with a river view thrown in. The crust comes out fresh and heavily cheesed; pepperoni and taco versions move fastest. Wings are big and properly sauced, bourbon included, and the subs and steak hoagies ride on rolls baked that morning. There is garlic bread with cheese, a sweet marinara, chicken and steak parmesan, and a simple all-you-can-eat salad bar. Visitors mention a spotless room and an owner who works the floor. Worth the detour.

Cuisine: Italian

Price range: $$