A QUE RUBEN – Restaurant

The lights come on at six-thirty in the evening and stay on past midnight, which tells you most of what you need to know about this shawarma counter on Northwest 82nd Avenue. Venezuelan hands work a Middle Eastern grill here: chicken, beef and mixed shawarma carved to order, plus a falafel version for anyone skipping meat. The kafta burger outsells everything else on the board, backed by chicken, pork and vegan falafel burgers and a short kids menu. Regulars talk about the portions and the late hours more than anything else. Friday and Saturday, the window stays open until one.

Cuisine: Restaurant