AJ'S CAFE – Restaurant

Doors open at six on Suncoast Boulevard, and the sausage gravy is already going. AJ's Cafe is a Homosassa breakfast-and-lunch room that makes gravy from scratch twice a day and ladles it over biscuits big enough to argue about. Pancakes come fluffy, with a long run of toppings. Lunch turns Southern and unpretentious: hamburgers, grilled tuna melts, meatloaf, chicken livers, fresh-cooked vegetables, turnip greens with pinto beans and cornbread. Closed Mondays, shut by early afternoon the rest of the week. Diners keep returning for the biscuits, the prices and servers who remember an order. Plain home cooking, no interpretation required.

Cuisine: Restaurant