IL RITORNO – Restaurant

High ceilings and exposed red brick on Central Avenue, an open kitchen, and a chef - David Benstock - who has held this room for more than a decade. Il Ritorno is modern Italian with the pasta doing the heavy lifting: Short Rib Mezzaluna, the dish that beat Bobby Flay on television; lobster and caviar cappelletti; corn and truffle tagliatelle; a plain, perfect bucatini pomodoro. Around it sit caviar doughnuts, koji-aged wagyu carpaccio, kombu-cured hamachi and serious steak. The chef's bar runs eight or nine courses you cannot order from the menu. Recognised in the MICHELIN Guide, and it acts like it - quietly.

Cuisine: Restaurant