GOLDEN LOTUS CHINESE RESTAURANT – Restaurant

Push past the strip-mall front on South John Young Parkway and you land in one of Orlando's steadier Cantonese kitchens, where the dim sum does most of the talking. Steamed shrimp dumplings, char siu bao and pan-fried turnip cake with XO sauce anchor the daytime list; dinner runs to Mongolian beef, orange chicken, spicy eggplant, braised tofu and shrimp wonton noodle soup. Regulars talk less about decor than about value — a clean, simple room, generous plates, prices that stay reasonable. Come early if dim sum is the point. It does not always last the day.

Cuisine: Restaurant