HUARACHE AZTECA – Restaurant

The huarache is the namesake and the reason to come: a thick oval of masa griddled to order, layered with beans and the meat you choose, then finished with queso fresco, crema and salsa. Around it runs the rest of a working Mexican kitchen on Dunedin's Bayshore Boulevard — tacos on warm tortillas with cebollitas, chilaquiles in red or green, nachos aztecas built for sharing, guacamole mashed fresh. Churros azteca close things out, best ordered hot. Plates land generous and unfussy, which is exactly the promise the place makes.

Cuisine: Restaurant