WILKE'S FOURTEEN BONES – Restaurant

You smell it from the parking lot on US-1, which is more or less the point. Wilke's 14 Bones smokes brisket marbled enough to stay juicy, dry-rubs its signature ribs, and turns out baby backs that pull clean off the bone. Around them sit pulled pork fries, a loaded brisket potato, plump wings in a buffalo sauce with heat but no bullying, smoked turkey, Brunswick stew, collards and red rice. Peanut butter pie if you paced yourself. Regulars praise the tenderness and the portions, though service can run uneven on a busy night. Unfussy, smoky, Vero Beach.

Cuisine: Restaurant