UMBERTO'S PIZZA AND RESTAURANT – Restaurant

An East Commercial Boulevard mainstay in Fort Lauderdale, working the New York-Italian playbook with a bar attached. The grandma's pizza is the one to know — a crust that manages floppy and crisp at once — with brick-oven pies, a tricolore, calzones and a stromboli beside it. The kitchen runs homemade lasagna, veal parmigiana, chicken rollatine and marsala, fried calamari and a seafood salad. Regulars, especially transplanted New Yorkers, say the flavors and portions land right and the bartenders keep the room easy. Consistency is the recurring complaint. On a good night it is exactly what you wanted.

Cuisine: Restaurant