DON BIGOTES – Restaurant

Taqueria Don Bigotes works out of a truck on Highway 331 in Freeport, and the queue tends to form before the window opens at half past ten. Tacos are sold singly, corn tortillas only, dressed with nothing but onion and cilantro; the menu twice refuses flour substitutions. Chavindecas come with salsa, guacamole and lettuce, burritos with rice and beans. The soups are the draw: menudo, caldo de camaron, a seven-seas broth, each served with four tortillas. Fridays and Saturdays it stays open later. Closed Mondays and Sundays. Diners keep returning for the asada and the welcome. Small operation, serious cooking.

Cuisine: Restaurant